Ia Orana! (= Tahitian for "Hello!")
We just returned from
French Polynesia where we spent 10 days on the beautiful island of
Moorea.
Moorea is a neighbor island of
Tahiti. It is much smaller and not as busy, perfect for a holiday with kids!
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| Moorea is shaped like a heart! |
We left on
Tuesday, April 16, at night (which gave me time to pack during the day) and took the red-eye flight from Los Angeles to
Papeete with Air Tahiti Nui. 8 hours later we landed in Papeete Faa'a International airport (5 o'clock local time). We were greeted by Moana ("ocean" in Tahitian), a super friendly guy from the travel agency, who took us to the Ferry dock where we took the Aremiti 5 ferry to Moorea, just a 30 minute boat ride. Once in Moorea, we were picked up and finally got to our hotel, the
Intercontinental Resort and Spa, our home for the next 10 days!
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| Lily, the dare-devil... sigh! |
Since we arrived so early, our bungalow wasn't ready yet (we had requested a beach bungalow), so we were offered to stay in a garden bungalow with private plunge pool for 1 day. (They also suggested an over-the-water bungalow but I thought that would be too dangerous with the kids). Even the fact that this bungalow had a pool worried me a bit, and talk about having a feeling... Lily indeed nearly drowned when we weren't watching her for a minute!!! (She had her floaties on, but had taken them off
"to be like daddy", the naughty little girl!!!) We are sooooo grateful nothing happened and that she was able to save herself. The rest of the holiday, I didn't take my eyes off her for another second!!!
You can imagine I was very happy when we moved to room 404, our beach bungalow, a much safer place to live!!!
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| Lily playing in the sand on our little stretch of beach |
On
Thursday, we explored the hotel gardens and swimming pool.
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| Thursday, 6:30 AM! Ennio and Marcus are taking a little walk before breakfast. |
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| GOOD MORNING, everyone! |
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| Writing beach messages... |
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| So much to see! |
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| At the beach! |
On
Friday, we went to the
Dolphin Center and had a meet and greet with the dolphins!
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| Close encounter! |
There are currently 3 dolphins in the center. We met up with Lukahi, an 18-yr old male dolphin. He was the sweetest dolphin ever! Lily loved hugging and kissing him. Lukahi played a little trick on us and splashed water all over us, which made us all laugh but also absolutely terrified Ennio! Our poor boy was so scared. He held on to Marcus as tight as he could!
All in all a very special experience! We also visited the sea turtle's center where the association "Te Mana o te Moana" takes care of wounded turtles before freeing them.
On
Saturday, we decided to rent a car and make a tour around the island. We drove up to the
Belvedere, the panoramic viewpoint of Moorea, where you have a spectacular view over
Opunohu Bay (on the left) and
Cook's Bay (on the right), separated by
Mt. Rotui, the sacred Mountain of Ancient Polynesians. We had a late lunch at
Moorea Beach Cafe and did some shopping in
Maharepa.
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| Ennio chasing the many roosters on the island! |
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| Belvedere look-out point! |
On
Sunday, we laid low and stayed at the hotel by the beach and the pool.
Monday, April 22: one of the highlights of the holiday! We got a car for the day and decided to go to the
Lagoonarium in Afareaitu to snorkel and swim with the lagoon's colorful fish. It was beautiful out there! We got to pet sting rays and snorkel to our heart's content. Some of the other visitors (from New Zealand and Australia) told us that this was some of the best snorkeling they had ever done. The fish in the coral reef were so big, bright and colorful, and there were even - hold your breath - baby sharks!!! Yes, I was in the water with baby sharks swimming right in front of me! I do have to say that I didn't feel too comfortable about that and swam back as fast as I could!!! I don't care everyone tells me it's okay and they don't hurt you! I'm a scaredy-pants!
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| Ready for some serious snorkeling! |
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| On our way to Afareaitu |
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| On the boat to the Lagoonarium |
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| Lily is sharing a snack with Ennio. |
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| Coral reef |
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| Pretty shells! |
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| Sting rays! |
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| Look at the colors! |
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| We just couldn't take enough pictures... |
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| Almost everyone in Polynesia has beautiful tattoos. |
At night, we had dinner at
Kaveka restaurant where we enjoyed a beautiful sunset.
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| Not a bad place to have your last milk bottle of the day! |
On
Tuesday, we had signed up for an excursion with
Hiro's Tours. Another fun activity! I especially enjoyed the picnic on the motu, where our guide proved to be a real stand-up comedian and showed us how to tie a pareo (I had no idea there were so many ways!!!) and how to open a coconut and make a fresh "poisson cru" salad. Oh, how I love Tahitian food! I would die to have another
poisson cru or
tuna tartare, with fresh pineapple juice and coconut ice cream as dessert!
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| Lily is having fun on the hotel's golf carts! |
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| Cracking up! |
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| Pretending to drive! |
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| On Hiro's boat! |
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| Shark alert during snorkeling time!!! |
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| I just don't trust them... |
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| Back on the boat! |
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| The "swim with the sharks" is a popular activity here... Hmm, not really for me! |
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| There are a lot of other fish to see too! |
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| Ennio loved the boat... |
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| ... and climbing up and down its stairs! |
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| Sting ray alert! |
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| Lily always made sure the fish were getting enough food!!! (her leftover baguette usually) |
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| We had to make sure Ennio wouldn't attack the rays! |
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| We got a nice sun tan that day... and are showing off our new rings! |
Wednesday. Lily's ear hurt and we went to a doctor in Maharepa to have it checked out. She got diagnosed with an "otite" (small ear infection) and was prescribed antibiotic ear drops. We had lunch at
Moz Cafe and then returned back to our hotel and rested a bit. At night, we had dinner at the beach of our hotel (feet in the sand!) and enjoyed the
Polynesian show. Ennio really got into it and clapped non-stop until... the fire dancers came on stage. OMG, when the one guy put the fire torch in his mouth, Ennio just freaked out and started screaming! Marcus quickly took him out of his high chair and comforted him, but our little guy was so terrified, that he refused to sit in that high chair for the rest of the holiday (fear that he couldn't get out, escape?)
Poor little fellow...
In retrospect, I don't think our holiday was the "ideal" holiday for children. First of all, there is "danger" everywhere, as the resort is not really designed with kids in mind (even though our travel package was a "family get-away" deal: kids stayed and ate for free!!!). It is geared towards couples, esp. newly-weds on honeymoon. These people don't have kids and some of them did not seem very understanding when we had to deal with a tantrum, raise our voice to the kids, etc... I could see them thinking
"We will do it differently!!!" Haha, just you wait :-)
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| Lily got this cute hand-made Tahitian dress in Haapiti Petit Village |
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| At the store in Haapiti |
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| Sipping fresh juice in Moz Cafe |
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| Before the show :-) |
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| Lily was very impressed! |
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| Still happy! |
I had read in my travel guide about
Coco Beach, a restaurant on
Motu Tiahura (a small islet, across from our hotel) that would pick you up by boat so you could spend the day on the motu, snorkel in the coral gardens, enjoy the private white sand beach, lounge in the hammock under the shady trees, etc. That all sounded very appealing to us, so we decided to make this our excursion for
Thursday! Oh my god, when we got there, we honestly believed we were in heaven!!! Look at the photos! It was just perfect. The family who owns the restaurant has a little girl, so there was even a little playground for the kids to play (We didn't see any other playgrounds on the island, so this was quite the find for us!) Lily made friends with the girl, who invited her into her house (a small hut on the motu). They jumped on the bed, painted faces, and watched TV. Yes, there was indeed TV in the small hut, everything was powered with solar panels. Smart idea, if you come to think how much sun French Polynesia is getting!
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| My heaven on earth! |
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| Look at the food! Shrimp curry and fresh tuna served in a coconut with pineapple juice and a Hinano Tahitian beer! It doesn't get any better than this! |
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| The solar panels! |
Around 3:30 PM the restaurant closed so the owner took us back to Moorea mainland. We went back to our room, let the kids rest for a bit and after a few hours, headed out for dinner to
Le Sud, a restaurant that had been recommended to us by
Kristel and Jan Ottenbourg, who have lived in Tahiti for 10 years I believe. They just recently moved to Dubai. Too bad we couldn't see them now that we finally made it here! We were the only customers in Le Sud (it's low season now) so got very good service! Since the tables are outside, we could park our car close to our table, so Ennio, who was still sleeping, could stay in his carseat while we were eating. Worked out great!
Friday, our last full day. The weather was overcast and we thought we had seen enough beach over the past few days, so we went on a roadtrip again! We first drove to
Tahiti Arômes where I got some vanilla beans and vanilla sugar (to use for cooking at home). We also visited the
Opunohu Lycée Agricole and had the best pineapple juice ever at the local cafeteria of the school! I got some coffee and locally grown pineapple-passion jam. Our breakfasts at home will have a Tahitian flavor from now on! We took the
"Route d'Ananas" back to Cook's Bay which led us through Moorea's pineapple fields. Beautiful!
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| Lily made friends with the lady from the Lycee's juice bar. |
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| Pineapple fields! |
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| Cook's Bay |
At night we were pretty exhausted. We ordered room service, I packed in the meantime, and we had an early night.
Saturday already, time to leave! We fortunately were able to get a late check-out, so we only had to leave the room at 2:30 PM, just before being picked up to get to the Ferry terminal. We had our last walk on the beach, soaked in the beauty of this place, and then left - back to Papeete. In Papeete, Moana was waiting for us. Since our plane to Los Angeles only left at midnight, he took us to the
Roulottes where we spent a few hours before going to the airport. Ennio was so excited at the airport, seeing all those planes, that he hardly slept. I suppose he got overly tired and exhausted because he threw up twice on the plane (once on me and once on Marcus)! O-oh! We were happy to get home on Sunday around noon, so we could change, rest, unpack... Ennio and Lily were also both excited to be back home and be able to play with their toys again (esp. Ennio, I have to say). Lily kept saying she misses the island!
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| Last breakfast... |
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| Last beach walk! |
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| Fish going for Lily's bread crumbs! |
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| Drinking coconut water! |
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| At the Roulottes in Papeete |
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Bye bye! Nana!
Thank you! Mauruuru! |
Yes, it was a wonderful holiday, but as I said, maybe not ideal with kids this age. If we ever go again (because it IS beautiful) then probably without them... so probably not in the next few years :-)