Monday, May 14, 2007

The wedding...

Chad and Sofia walking down the aisle in La Compania church

Time to wrap up this travel journal, because it keeps me from posting other things! So, here we go, in a last effort:

Day 7 - April 28, 2007 - Sacsayhuaman and the Wedding!

Stomach problems all night long made sure I didn't get much sleep, but, on the bright side, I was able to read the entire chapter on the Inca civilization, their rise and fall, in my travel guide! So, I also learned about Sacsayhuaman, dubbed "Sexy Woman" by Americans, because that is how you pronounce it (kind of), which are maybe the most impressive Inca ruins I have seen, just outside of Cuzco (30 minute walk).

Marcus walks along one of the walls of Sacsayhuaman

It is simply unimaginable how the Incas were able to piece together these giant walls. The largest stone stands 8.5 m high and weighs 361 tons; even so, these massive blocks curve into one another as if squashed together like clay!


The Incas did not use mortar. Nevertheless, the walls are immovable and have withstood the biggest earthquakes. More than once, Spanish edifices built on Inca ruins would be destroyed by nature's elements, leaving the fantastic Inca foundations unmoved. How they did it remains a mystery to this day...

This is part of the "Sacsayhuaman". I hope you're not too disappointed, Janneke!!!

For history buffs, this is how one Spanish historian described Sacsayhuaman:

"This was the greatest and most superb of the edifices that the Incas raised to demonstrate their majesty and power. Its greatness is incredible to those who have not seen it; and those who have seen it, and studied it with attention, will be led not alone to imagine, but to believe, that it was reared by enchantment - by demons, and not by men, because of the number and size of the stones placed in the three walls, which are rather cliffs than walls, and which it is impossible to believe were cut out of quarries, since the Indians had neither iron nor steel wherewith to extract or shape them. And how they were brought together is a thing equally wonderful, since the Indians had neither carts nor oxen nor ropes, wherewith to drag them by main force. Nor were there level road over which to transport them, but, on the contrary, steep mountains and abrupt declivities, to be overcome with the simple force of men. ... It passes the power of imagination to conceive how so many and so great stones could be so accurately fitted together as scarcely to admit the insertion of the point of a knife between them." Garcilaso de la Vega, Comentarios reales que tratan del origen de los Incas (1609)

Another highlight of our trip! We walked back to Cuzco center, had a sandwich for lunch in San Blas, and weighed our options for the afternoon. I decided to treat myself to an "Inka massage" (others had had one over the past few days and said it did wonders to their sore muscles) while Marcus kept busy at the Internet cafe. The massage did feel wonderful, even though it was more painful than relaxing, but it really helped loosen up my muscles.

Around 4 PM we got back to the hotel and got ready to attend Chad and Sofia's wedding ceremony at the beautiful Jesuits' church of La Compania at the Plaza de Armas (see picture).


The church looks spectacular on the inside.


The ceremony was held in Spanish and very traditional, but once the formal part was done, the festivities broke loose! Music, a street parade, fireworks. It was amazing! The whole town seemed to celebrate with us!

We made some movies that I will try to put on-line soon. Update: here they are:





The dinner was held at the church and convent of La Merced. Too bad my stomach didn't let me enjoy all the goodies as much as I would have liked! It was fun, though, we were entertained all night long by dancers, artists, singers, ... Definitely a wedding to remember!

The guys are smoking cigars outside

Day 8 - April 29, 2007 - Horseback riding around Cuzco

Last day in Peru. We slept in, had a lovely "hangover brunch" at Mi Manera, and then went horseback riding in the afternoon.

Oro was a real sweet horse!

We visited Tambo Machay, aka Los Banos del Inca, an ancient place of water worship, which houses the "fountain of youth".

With McCall and Jen by the water fountain

The interesting thing about these water cascades is that no one knows where the water comes from! You would have to excavate the mountain to explore the fountain's source. It is the only natural drinking water in this area and the water level in the fountain's basin always stays the same, in dry or rain season. Another Inca mystery!

We also rode our horses to Puca Pucara, another Inca fort. Good thing I bought a Boleto Turistico (Visitor's Ticket) on our first day, because this ticket (70 soles) gives entrance to most of the archeological sites in and around Cuzco and the Sacred Valley.

It got dark soon and I was happy to get back safe into town. Inca paths are not to be underestimated, even for horses!

We met up with everyone else who was still in Cuzco (most wedding guests were leaving either this day or the day after) and had a cozy "last meal" in one of the typical restaurants on the Plaza de Armas. I had a local specialty, Alpaca ribs, and they tasted delicious!

After saying goodbye to everyone, we headed back to the hotel, for a short night and a loooong trip home the next day. But we made it! And it was worth it! Viva el Peru!

Saturday, May 12, 2007

Discovering Cuzco...

Day 6 - April 27, 2006 - cruising around Cuzco

Today was a day with nothing planned, except the rehearsal dinner at 6:00 PM. Lovely! We enjoyed sleeping in, slowly getting up and getting ready to have breakfast in one of the small bakeries in Cuzco. We landed in El Buen Pastor, at 579 Cuesta San Blas, where we had delicious coffee, bread + jam and empanadas. Mmm... What's more, this place is a charitable concern, helping to finance a home for girls from disadvantaged backgrounds.

We walked around San Blas (one of the eldest neighborhoods of Cuzco), hung around the Plaza de Armas and got to talking with Shanty, a musician who had travelled the world but was now back home in Cuzco. There was a enormous street parade going on and he explained that it was to raise support for Machu Picchu in the election of the New 7 Wonders of the World.

The New 7 Wonders of the World will be announced during an official ceremony in Lisbon, Portugal, on 07.07.07. I didn't even know there was such a thing going on. But Peruvians are very aware. Often times they would come up to us "please, vote for Machu Picchu!" They are very proud of their cultural heritage and rightfully so!

Marcus and Shanty

After spending some time at an Internet cafe, we headed back to the hotel to get ready for the Rehearsal Dinner. This is a typical American wedding custom. It is a dinner that takes place the night before the actual wedding. In this case, it was offered by Elaine and Jerry, the groom's parents, to thank everyone who had travelled so far to Peru to attend their son's wedding.

Oh my God, it was so nice! The dinner was at the Monasterio, one of the fanciest hotels of Cuzco. This hotel is so out-of-the ordinary, it has a system pumping oxygen into the rooms, to prevent its guests from suffering from altitude sickness!!!

Marcus in the Chapel of Hotel Monasterio

The food was delicious:

Mushroom Minestrone with goat cheese mezzalunas
*
Steamed seabass with grilled foie gras, saffron and Pernod nage, fresh coriander, fennel cassolette
*
Lamb loin in Madeira sauce, wheat bulgur with toasted cumin and mint, turnips and cherry tomatoes, balsamic vinegar reduction
*
Almond chocolate pyramid con roasted banana compote, almond milk ice cream
.

Our table at the rehearsal dinner - lots of fun!

Waw, Jerry and Elaine really gave it their all. To me, it felt like this was already the wedding dinner! But that was only the next day!!!

They really spoiled us!

Thank you Chad, Sofia and parents!

Tuesday, May 08, 2007

Tour of the Sacred Valley

Bulls for prosperity and fertility. Toritos (little bulls) are a traditional Peruvian symbol for luck and fertility. Locals put them on the roofs of their homes to bring their families good fortune.

***

Day 5 - April 26, 2007 - Tour of the Sacred Valley

Today, we took it easy... even though there was another event on the agenda: the Tour of the Sacred Valley. Sofia did such a great job organizing all these activities for her guests. And she participated in most of them, even though she still had tons to do for her own wedding party on Saturday!

We went to a farm where locals breed lama's and alpaca's and weave the fiber into beautiful fabrics.

The baby alpaca was so cute.


I bought a colorful scarf made from baby alpaca fiber, it was expensive, but I felt pretty good about it, since all the profits go straight back to the people who made it!


After the farm, we had lunch but I wasn't very hungry. The high altitude makes your digestive system work slower and I did experience (and I wasn't the only one) some stomach problems...

View of the Sacred Valley

We also stopped at the famous market in Pisac, where we did some souvenir shopping. In the afternoon we visited the ruins of Ollantaytambo. Again, very impressive, but a bit too touristy... (but who am I to complain, being a tourist myself...)


We then returned to Cuzco and underway stopped at a place brewing and selling chicha. Not my favorite drink, however, I prefer the Peruvian Pisco Sour!

All in all, another busy day, topped off with a nice dinner in an Andean restaurant (I believe it was named Incanto) and a serenade for Allie (Chad's sister) because it was her 25th birthday!


Allie and her mom (dad in the back!)

And with that, I am going to bed. More stories of our trip tomorrow! And the best is yet to come: Rehearsal dinner! Wedding! Sexy Woman (or: Sacsayhuaman!) Fireworks! Horseback riding!

Good night!

Gewoon een tip...

... voor degenen die graag reisverhalen lezen. Ik heb een super-coole site ontdekt: Travel Blog, boordevol spannende verhalen van mensen die graag reizen en de wereld verkennen. Ik voel het alweer kriebelen en ben nog maar terug! Leesplezier verzekerd!

Machu Picchu

Day 4 - April 25, 2007 - visit of Machu Picchu

We were woken up by Willy at an ungodly hour... (I believe it was around 5 AM). The goal was to see the sun rise over Machu Picchu. Unfortunately, the sky was cloudy and we didn't see much of the sun... It was pouring rain, so my rainjacket (late minute purchase from L.A. Sport Chalet the evening before we left) came in handy!

I didn't mind the clouds I have to say. They made everything look spooky. It was awesome!

Marcus in the rain

Spooky Machu Picchu

Inca walls and terraces (and a wet Marcus, haha)

This is a rock sculpted in the shape of the mountains behind it.

The Urubamba river. See our tents? (the little circle)

And last but not least: Wayna Picchu (which means: "young mountain"), the mountain overlooking Machu Picchu.


Willy gave us an excellent tour around the ruins, and when it was done (and we were soaking wet)... the sun came through!!! Well, you didn't hear us complain! It was only 10 AM at that point and we only had to be back in the train station of Aguas Calientes by 4 PM. So, half of the group decided to hang out in Aguas Calientes, while the other half took on the mission to... climb Wayna Picchu! I didn't know who to go with at first, but then I figured, this was probably the only chance I had to climb this mountain, at least in this lifetime, so I decided to go with the brave ones and conquer Wayna Picchu!

Ready to climb Wayna Picchu (the tall mountain in the back) with McCall and Anne-Marie

And what a conquest it was!

Here we're still smiling, ha!

The path for Wayna Picchu is a steep old Inca trail and a tough 45-minute climb (Inca-time!!! - Me: 2 hours!) to the top. Most of the climbing was up really steep stone steps cut into the mountain. Some of it was so steep you had to pull yourself up on ropes.

I often had to stop for a rest and water and catch my breath. My heart was beating like crazy! But we wanted to get to the top, so we kept climbing... and climbing... and climbing.

Puf puf puf...

Here I am halfway. You can see the shape of Machu Picchu, supposedly the shape of a condor...

Marcus chilling at the top of Wayna Picchu

Finally, we got to the top. The view was amazing. We were soooo high up. It brought me to tears! (Also, I have to admit, because I had no clue how the hell I was going to get down again... the steps being so steep and slippery)

After enjoying our mountain top spot for a while, we started the descent, slowly but surely... At some point, we had to squeeze through really small caves that were completely black inside - I thought I was going going to get stuck! I came out all muddy and you should have seen the faces of the people who were still climbing up. They looked horrified, haha! In retrospect, it is pretty funny!

The descent was not as bad as I had feared (although I did feel my knees) and we got down the mountain in less than an hour. What an adventure! I can honestly say that this was my toughest hike ever and a huge personal achievement!

We took the bus back to Aguas Calientes and from there on, took the train to Ollantaytambo and then the bus to Cuzco. How nice it was to get back to our room, take a hot shower, and lay on the bed! What a day!

Monday, May 07, 2007

Inca trail

Another Quechua lady with baby lama and little boy. We were sitting down on the Plaza, having a rest and she asked us to please take a picture and give them some money... They looked so beautiful, so we happily complied with her request!

***
Back to our backpacking adventure! Willy was our guide and did a great job leading us the way...

This is Willy at the beginning of the trail. To the left you can see the trail we were walking (mostly steps). In the top right corner of the pic you can vaguely see Winya Wayna, a religious Inca site, to which we were headed.

It was a beautiful day, glorious sunshine and off we went. The first half of the day would prove to be the toughest. Lots of impressive flights of Inca steps! After what seemed to be an eternity, we reached our first stop, sat in the shade, drank some water, caught our breath and asked Willy how long we had been walking... I couldn't believe it when he said we'd been walking for... a whole 25 minutes!!! Huh? It felt like hours! Anyway, we got on our feet again and continued... And it seemed to get easier. Once you get into the pace, the walk is pretty amazing and the views are absolutely stunning.

Find Ilse and Cooper in the midst of nature...

We are getting closer to Winya Wayna...

The views are incredible... Pictures cannot really capture it...

We passed by a gorgeous waterfall underway...

... and finally made it halfway! This is a group picture at the bottom of Winya Wayna.

And this is a view of Winya Wayna...

... and another view (the terraces)

About Winya Wayna, the name means "forever young" in Quechua and the place is named after a pink orchid of that name that grows there (see picture below).


At this site we had our lunch and then we took off for the last part of our hike: the trek to Intipunku, the Gateway to the Sun, from which you have a beautiful view over Machu Picchu.

This part was easier. Not so much uphill anymore, but straight on, except for this one flight of stairs... (Sofia said that when she did it before, it made her cry!!!) No one cried this time, though! I guess we expected the worst, and then when we were there, it was actually OK... we did rename the steps the "Spiderman steps" because most of us were using hand and feet to get up them! But it was ALL WORTH IT! Once we arrived at the Sun Gate, it was well over 5, and Machu Picchu was laying on our feet, deserted, the sun slowly setting... What a beautiful view!!!

We walked further towards Machu Picchu and came across some lama's on the way, grazing on the terraces (nice!)

As we were running late (another running joke was our time indication: a hike 45 minutes "Inca-time" equaled at least 2 hours "tourist time"! Apparently the Inca's were unbelievably fast. Messengers in Inca times could run the entire trail in a matter of hours!!! (goes completely beyond my comprehension...)) we hurried down the trail to the parking lot at the entrance of Machu Picchu where the last bus was waiting for us.

A great shot of Marcus and I at Machu Picchu.

The bus took us down to our camping site by the Urubamba river. There we had drinks (Cusquenia beer! That tasted good!) and dinner and then we were off to our tents, ready to sleep and explore Machu Picchu the next day!